Crochet, Free Pattern

Golden Autumn Skirt – Free Crochet Pattern

Introducing my first skirt pattern: the Golden Autumn Skirt! I made this skirt last year, but it’s taken me a while to get it all written up. I’ve also been debating how and when to release it, and I finally decided to go ahead and publish it on my blog. There’s still some work to do, but later on I’ll have a nice PDF to purchase on Ravelry. Edit: The lovely and convenient PDF of this pattern is now available in my Ravelry store.

This skirt is called Golden Autumn because it is rather heavy and would be ideal for cooler weather. Also, I made it out of this lovely, soft, gold yarn that I fell in love with at the store, so there’s the golden part, obviously. I got more of the same soft yarn in a different shade for another skirt, by the way, which will be coming later.

For my first skirt, I wanted a very simple design. This skirt has a straight silhouette and the waist is cinched with elastic for an easy fit. It features custom sizing, using your own measurements as the starting point. This will be part of a set as soon as I can figure out how to design the jacket.

Golden Autumn Skirt Crochet Pattern

Skill Level

Advanced Beginner


  • Light/#3/DK weight yarn – see section on yardage below – I used Revesderecho Metal, 30% acrylic/70% polyester, 100g/180m in Gold.
  • Crochet Hook H
  • Yarn needle for weaving in ends
  • 1” strong elastic for waistband – see the section on elastic below

Abbreviations – Written in US terms

  • Ch – chain
  • Fdc – foundation double crochet
  • Dc – double crochet
  • Bpdc – back post double crochet
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Rsc – reverse single crochet
  • BLO – back loop only
  • FLO – front loop only


16 dcs x 10 rows = 4” x 4” (10cm x 10cm)


You will need a strong, wide elastic for this skirt because it is rather heavy. Check the stretch percentage of the elastic by taking a length of elastic 5” long and stretching it next to a ruler. Note how much it stretches. For example, if it stretches to 8”, that’s 3” longer, which means it has 3/5, or 60% stretch. This is important to make sure that the waistband will stretch enough to fit over the hips. Decide on the length you need based on the waist measurement. Generally, it’s recommended to use a piece of elastic a few inches shorter than your waist measurement. You will also need an extra inch for sewing. Before cutting, you need to do some math: take that length and multiply it by 1 + the stretch percentage (in the example that would be 1.6) and make sure the result is greater than the hip measurement. Overlap the ends of the elastic by 1 inch and sew together by hand or machine. Sew the elastic before putting it in the waistband as directed. For children’s skirts, you can use a narrower elastic, or you may prefer to use a drawstring.


The amount of yarn is approximate for the size ranges and also depends on the desired length. For reference, I have included the hip measurements for standard women’s sizes.

Women – The amounts for each size below correspond to four different skirt lengths: 18″, 20″, 22″, 24″.

  • XS (33-34): 2080-2400-2590-2790 yards
  • S (35-36): 2190-2520-2730-2930 yards
  • M (38-40): 2450-2820-3040-3270 yards
  • L (42-44): 2680-3090-3340-3590 yards
  • XL (46-48): 2920-3360-3630-3910 yards
  • 2X (52-53): 3230-3720-4020-4320 yards
  • 3X (54-55): 3360-3860-4180-4490 yards
  • 4X (56-57): 3470-3990-4310-4640 yards
  • 5X (61-62): 3780-4350-4700-5050 yards

Children – standard waist measurements

  • 2/3 (21): 785 yards
  • 4/5 (21½): 960 yards
  • 6 (22½): 1160 yards
  • 7/8 (23½): 1480 yards
  • 10/12 (24½-25): 1730 yards


This pattern is worked in the round. Ch-2 at the beginning of each round doesn’t count as a dc.
This skirt has a straight silhouette; the base panel rounds all have the same number of stitches as the starting round. Each round of the ruffles has 3 times that number. The pattern is designed with negative ease; the base panel circumference is 5/6 of the hip measurement.


This pattern is made to measure. Take the hip measurement and multiply it by 5/6. Multiply that by 4, then round down if necessary to get a whole number. The result is the number of starting fdcs. Example: 36″ x 5 ÷ 6 x 4 = 120 fdcs. After you divide the hip by 5/6, if the result is less than the waist measurement + 1, then use the waist instead. Take the waist and add 1, then multiply by 4 to get the number of starting fdcs.

Number of Rounds per Section for Each Size


*Refer to the tables for the number of rounds. Fdc number calculated according to sizing instructions.

Round 1: Fdc *, sl st to first st.

Round 2: Ch 2, dc in same st and in each st across, sl st to first dc.

Repeat round 2 to reach * total rounds. (Yoke)

Round 10: Ch 2, bpdc around each st across, sl st to first st.

Repeat round 2 for * more rounds. (Base panel 1)

Next round: Ch 2, bpdc around each st across, sl st to first st.

Repeat round 2 for * more rounds. (Base panel 2)

Next round: Ch 2, bpdc around each st across, sl st to first st.

Repeat round 2 for * more rounds. (Base panel 3)

Next round: Ch 2, bpdc around each st across, sl st to first st.

Repeat round 2 for * more rounds. Fasten off. (Base panel 4)


Round 1: Working in the tops of the sts of the round before the first bpdc round, join with sl st in the BLO of the first st. Ch 2, (dc 2 in BLO, dc 1 in FLO) in same st and in each st across, sl st to first st.

Round 2: Ch 2, dc in same st and in each st across, sl st to first st.

Repeat round 2 for * total rounds. (Top ruffle)

Edging round: Ch 1, rsc in same st and in each st across. Rsc in sl st of previous round. Fasten off. Weave tail through several loops on the back of the first rsc to join.

Reverse Single Crochet Invisible Join

Follow the same instructions for the remaining ruffles, making each ruffle with the total number of rounds as indicated in the chart. (Remaining ruffles)

Foundation Double Crochet Join

Pull the tail from front to back through the loops of the st on the left side of opening. Then pull the tail from back to front the the loops of the st on the right side of opening. Pull closed and weave the tail in.

Waistband Lining

Round 1: Working on the wrong side, in the back loops of the fdcs, join with a sl st in the first st. Ch 2, dc in same st and in each st across, sl st to first st.

Round 2: Ch 2, dc in same st and in each st across, sl st to first st.

Repeat round 2 for * total rounds (Yoke). Remove the hook from the loop, but don’t pull the loop out. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail: count the number of sts in the round and multiply it by 1¼”. Fold the waistband lining inside and mark the st on the outside layer that lines up with the last worked st on the inside. Also, mark the sts of the 3rd round on the inside and outside that line up, next to the seam.

With the elastic inside the waistband, insert the hook through the tops of the marked sts inside and outside the skirt.

Working on the inside of the skirt with the fdc edge facing up, place the elastic between the lining and the outer panel, against the fdc edge. Join yarn with a sl st through the marked sts of the 3rd round on the inside and outside, enclosing the elastic. Sl st in each st across. Fasten off.

Lining Finishing

Pick up the loop left from working the lining. Insert the hook into the next st and through the corresponding st of the outer panel. The round is the one just below the first round of the top ruffle. Pull the long tail leftover completely through the st to the right of the hook. Sl st in each st across. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

Now your skirt is finished! I hope you enjoy wearing it and that it keeps you warm on a cool autumn day.

If you make this, I’d love to see it! Please credit me and link to my page if you would like to share. Please don’t copy my pattern and paste it elsewhere. Thank you!

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